V1C2: Stitches: Part 5

There are many different hand stitches one does in the construction of garments.  They are used for basting, thread marking stitching lines and permanent finishing stitches.

Basting is used with a single thread no more than 30 inches long.  When used to mark a seam line, they are sewn directly on the seam line markings (whether markings are tailor tacks or made with marking implements like chalk liners or transfer paper).  When they are used to fit-- sew the basting line a fraction inside or outside the seam line -- these will be removed and have trace.  When basting a knit garment, begin them with a loose fastening stitch as the stretch of the knit could pull it out- - also sew loosely to allow for stretch with a smaller stitch that would be used on wovens.

When sewing permanent seams, don't use any longer than 18 inch  strand of thread.

The Fastening Stitch:  "to anchor the thread--draw the needle up through the fabric from the wrong side and pull it through, leaving a 4 inch loose end, insert the needle back 1/4 inch. Bring it out at the point at which it first emerged, then pull the thread through.  Insert the needle back over the first stitch and bring it out 1/4 inch ahead .  After anchoring the thread in this fashion, proceed with the desired stitch." (It is very easy, just a backstitch over your first stitch).

The Basting Stitch: for markings and temporary sewing

The Running Stitch: to mark or baste small areas and to topstitch

The Overcast Stitch-- to finish seam edges.

The Hemming Stitch--for bound or raw edges

The Rolled Hem Stitch-- for lightweight fabrics

The stitch ends up looking like little parenthesis 1/4 inch apart.  After 4 of them (or 1 inch), pull gently with the thread and they disappear like magic.

The Catch Stitch-- to hem knits and heavy fabrics

The Slip Stitch-- to hem folded edges

Buttonhole stitch
Professor Pin Cushion to the Rescue:

V1C2: Thread --Part 4

http://www.specialtyquiltinginfo.com/thread-rolling-comparison-between-technologies/ (image credit)

So Much Variety

Thread comes in different weights.  When this book was written, mercurized cotton was the most common thread found in stores and used to sew with. 

  However, I recently went to Joanne's and found that Polyester Thread is most common now with mercurized cotton sold as more of a specialty thread. 
 This may make sense for the store -- most of their fabric are made up of polyester.  

1. Use cotton thread to sew cotton, linen, rayon, and cotton synthetic blends. 

2. Use silk thread (a type called A) for silk, wool, wool-silk blends and synthetics (leaves no lint!).

3. Use polyester thread for knits and silk buttonhole twist for buttons and buttonholes. 

Today most of us use polyester all purpose thread with most of our everyday kinds of clothing.  Some threads are a combination of a cotton core with poly around it (Dual Duty).

Superior Threads

Coats and Clark


Needle sizes to use: Size 7 or 8  for polyester and mercurized thread; Sizes 8 or 9 for silk thread and Size 4 or 5 for buttonhole twist.

Threading a Needle

To begin to sew with a needle and thread, first you must trim the thread at a 45 degree angle for a sharp edge to thread the needle.  Threading a needle can be tricky, you may need to tilt the needle so you can see the eye and poke the thread through it.  There are needle threaders available on the market for those with failing vision or who are just impatient with the process.  The important thing is the needle must be threaded.  Easy thread or Calyx needles are available as well but they are best used for finishing a line of stitching.  Sometimes waxing the thread can help to stiffen it for threading.


To wax a thread, one draws the thread or a group of threads through beeswax, place them between two papers and press with the iron to melt the wax into the fibers.  It produces a strong thread.  Here is a How-To courtesy of YouTube: 

To make a knot at the end of the thread (not always needed) Take the thread at the end,  loop it around your index finger a couple of times and then push the loop off and with index finger and thumb draw it down the thread into a knot.