V1C2: Stitches: Part 5

There are many different hand stitches one does in the construction of garments.  They are used for basting, thread marking stitching lines and permanent finishing stitches.

Basting is used with a single thread no more than 30 inches long.  When used to mark a seam line, they are sewn directly on the seam line markings (whether markings are tailor tacks or made with marking implements like chalk liners or transfer paper).  When they are used to fit-- sew the basting line a fraction inside or outside the seam line -- these will be removed and have trace.  When basting a knit garment, begin them with a loose fastening stitch as the stretch of the knit could pull it out- - also sew loosely to allow for stretch with a smaller stitch that would be used on wovens.

When sewing permanent seams, don't use any longer than 18 inch  strand of thread.

The Fastening Stitch:  "to anchor the thread--draw the needle up through the fabric from the wrong side and pull it through, leaving a 4 inch loose end, insert the needle back 1/4 inch. Bring it out at the point at which it first emerged, then pull the thread through.  Insert the needle back over the first stitch and bring it out 1/4 inch ahead .  After anchoring the thread in this fashion, proceed with the desired stitch." (It is very easy, just a backstitch over your first stitch).

The Basting Stitch: for markings and temporary sewing

The Running Stitch: to mark or baste small areas and to topstitch

The Overcast Stitch-- to finish seam edges.

The Hemming Stitch--for bound or raw edges

The Rolled Hem Stitch-- for lightweight fabrics

The stitch ends up looking like little parenthesis 1/4 inch apart.  After 4 of them (or 1 inch), pull gently with the thread and they disappear like magic.

The Catch Stitch-- to hem knits and heavy fabrics

The Slip Stitch-- to hem folded edges

Buttonhole stitch
Professor Pin Cushion to the Rescue:

V1C2: Thread --Part 4

http://www.specialtyquiltinginfo.com/thread-rolling-comparison-between-technologies/ (image credit)

So Much Variety

Thread comes in different weights.  When this book was written, mercurized cotton was the most common thread found in stores and used to sew with. 

  However, I recently went to Joanne's and found that Polyester Thread is most common now with mercurized cotton sold as more of a specialty thread. 
 This may make sense for the store -- most of their fabric are made up of polyester.  

1. Use cotton thread to sew cotton, linen, rayon, and cotton synthetic blends. 

2. Use silk thread (a type called A) for silk, wool, wool-silk blends and synthetics (leaves no lint!).

3. Use polyester thread for knits and silk buttonhole twist for buttons and buttonholes. 

Today most of us use polyester all purpose thread with most of our everyday kinds of clothing.  Some threads are a combination of a cotton core with poly around it (Dual Duty).

Superior Threads

Coats and Clark


Needle sizes to use: Size 7 or 8  for polyester and mercurized thread; Sizes 8 or 9 for silk thread and Size 4 or 5 for buttonhole twist.

Threading a Needle

To begin to sew with a needle and thread, first you must trim the thread at a 45 degree angle for a sharp edge to thread the needle.  Threading a needle can be tricky, you may need to tilt the needle so you can see the eye and poke the thread through it.  There are needle threaders available on the market for those with failing vision or who are just impatient with the process.  The important thing is the needle must be threaded.  Easy thread or Calyx needles are available as well but they are best used for finishing a line of stitching.  Sometimes waxing the thread can help to stiffen it for threading.


To wax a thread, one draws the thread or a group of threads through beeswax, place them between two papers and press with the iron to melt the wax into the fibers.  It produces a strong thread.  Here is a How-To courtesy of YouTube: 

To make a knot at the end of the thread (not always needed) Take the thread at the end,  loop it around your index finger a couple of times and then push the loop off and with index finger and thumb draw it down the thread into a knot.

V1C2 The Sewing Machine, The Iron, Needle, Thimble, and Thread Part 3

The Sword and Shield 

Throughout history, In order to sew a seam, the very basic  tools needed are a needle, thimble and thread.  While the need to sew all seams by hand has remarkably decreased with the sewing machine available as a power tool allowing much more speed in constructing garments, the need for sewing by hand has not been eliminated.  You might want to use hand sewing if you are interested in period correct historic costume or couture construction.

 In the 14th and 15th centuries, good needles were prized possessions.  They were difficult to source and found at festival times when peddlars traveled to the villages and towns to sell their wares.  Most households had only one needle.  Most people only had one outfit to wear (unless they were wealthy).  These bronze needles were somewhat crude and often bent to prevent them from sliding out of the fabric being sewing when put aside.  Legend has that the steel needle was developed by the Chinese soon after the silk fiber was discovered by the Empress (how soon after is in question as there was no steel in China at that time).

As the finer steel needle developed and was available into the reign of Queen Elizabeth from the metalsmiths of the Middle East, needlework became even more elaborate and detailed.

The needles developed then and are now needles we still use today-- Sharps  are what we use most often in our households; Straws, or Milliner's needles were often used to make straw hats, thicker blunter needles called Blunts, used for skill-building young women in embroidery and by tailors and cobblers to sew with leather and heavy fabrics.

click to enlarge

Needles today are available in 24 sizes. The higher the number, the smaller the needle.

Thimbles were also developed in the earliest centuries. The Art of Sewing Volume 1 shows a picture of a bronze thimble found in Syria dated to 300 BC. The correct way to wear a thimble is on your middle finger of your needle or sewing hand. I'm left-handed so it would go on my left second finger. Your thimble should be lightweight and have deep enough ridges that your needle will not slip. The use of the thimble is to push the needle through the fabric using the side of the thimble, not the tip. There are a variety of thimble types available.