V1C3 Fabric Preparation

Aligning and Straightening the Material

From McCalls Step by Step Sewing Book. Copyright 1969, p51

Preparing the fabric for your project-- if you are following along, this is on pages 74 and 75.

If you fabric has not been preshrunk, you must prepare it before laying it out and cutting it.  If it is washable, wash and dry it. If it is not washable, have it dry cleaned.   I always wash my fabrics unless they are 100% polyester.   I wash flannel and denim multiple times as they tend to progressively shrink.  Wools --I have them steamed at the drycleaner's although you can preshrink at home with a steam iron.  Silks get drycleaned.  Linens are washed and pressed.   After washing it is necessary to straighten the grain as it could have been stretched on the bolt or stretched off grain in the washing process.  If it is not straightened before it is cut, the garment will be off grain and not hang properly, twisting or sagging.

Natural fibers are generally easier to cut on the true grain than synthetics and are easier to handle and adjust.  Synthetic/natural blends may be need increased time and effort to straighten.  

Find the crosswise grain line.

1. Iron the fabric on the wrong side and remove wrinkles and creases.

2. If your fabric is knit, go to #8.  If you fabric is woven, spread wrong side up on the table.  Snip into the selvedge (lengthwise edge), at a point where a single thread runs the entire width of the fabric.

Step 3, 4

3. Using a pin, snag a crosswise thread from the snipped edge.

4. Pull gently on the thread, easing it along as though you were gathering the fabric, it will look like a bunched up puckered line.

5. If the thread breaks, don't panic!  Just find the point of the break and pick it back up or grab the one next to it.  Continue pulling.

6.  Cut along the pulled thread from one side to the other.  That will be your crosswise grain. 

7. Repeat 1-6 on other side of fabric.

8.  If your fabric is a knit:  Line up an L-shaped square ruler along one crosswise edge of the square with the selvedge edge.

Step 8, 9

9.  With your fabric chalk, mark a line along the crosswise grain perpendicular to the selvedge edge up the side of the L square.

10.  Cut along the chalk line from one side to the other.

11.  Repeat 8-10 on the other side.

How to check the alignment on the crosswise and lengthwise sides.

12.  Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, wrong sides on the outside and match the selvedges.

Step 12 and 13

13.  Place the folded fabric on a rectangular or square table aligning the selvedges against one side of the table and the new crosswise edges against the other.  If the raw edges don't match evenly and the corners don't form a right angle, the fabric is off grain and needs to be straightened.

How to straighten your fabric:

14.  If your fabric is not washable, skip to #16.  Fold the fabric in loose pleats and immerse it for about an hour in a sink with water at the temperature recommended for washing this fabric.  At the end of the soaking period, gently squeeze out the water and lay the fabric out on a flat surface until it is almost dry.  --For best results, do not use your dryer.

Step 14, 15

15.  To straighten the damp material, begin by folding it so the selvedge falls horizontally as shown.  Grasp one corner and a point on the material as far along the diagonally opposite edge as you can reach.  Pull hard.  Repeat by sliding the hand at the corner down to the point of the original fold and again place the other hand as far along the opposite edge as you can reach.  Continue this process until you have stretched the entire piece.

16.  Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with wrong sides facing out and pin together the crosswise edges and the selveges at 5 inch intervals using rustproof pins.  As you pin, smooth the fabric toward the fold with your hands.

Step 16, 17

17.  Using a steam iron, begin to iron at the pinned selvage edges and move toward the fold.  Continue moving in parallel pathes until you have ironed the complete length of the material.

Drawings by Raymond Skibinski 

V1C3 Heritage of the Weaver's Art

A little history about textiles:


     The first cloth, in prehistoric times was felted animal fibers.  It is unknown when the technology of woven fibers evolved.   There have been paintings discovered in 8,000 year old Egyptian tombs of nomads dressed in woven robes featuring geometric designs.   Even prior to that time cloth was loosely woven with fibers that had been crudely twisted together.  As need and innovation progressed, distaff and spindle developed to spin the fiber more evenly and uniformly; a loom was developed to hold warp thread so the woof thread could be drawn through.  Loom innovations continued with many different models creating more ease in the weaving so the work would be completed more efficiently.

     Weavers developed different weaves-- a plain weave, a twill weave, and a satin weave.  Plain weave is simply a the woof yarn woven over and under, twill is where the woof passes over two or more warp yarns before woven over and under and satin is where the warp is over a number of woof yarns before being passed through.  These weaves are still basic for fabrics in the natural fibers: cotton, wool, flax and silk as well as synthetics.

     The creation of fabrics before synthetics and in history was vital to a nations industry and trade.  In fact there were draconian laws passed to protect the process of production and sourcing.  In China it was death by torture to share the secret of silk making outside of the country.  In the Middle Ages, the penalty for smuggling wool out of England was exile and even the nobility were instructed as to how many garments they may own.   Regulations covered every step of manufacturing: standards of quality, conditions of sale, manner of use and guilds were highly policed.   In Flanders, sellers were not allowed to consult with potential buyers -- so much that their physical proximity or careless cough would be interpreted as communication.

     While the natural fibers have been in use for centuries, the advent of the 20th century saw the creation of synthetic fibers.  The first synthetic created was rayon in 1911.  This was made by weaving long filaments of cellulose molecules.  These are very smooth fibers and produced a very tight flowing lustrous weave much like silk which was very good for evening gowns and linings, but not much else until other processes were developed to provide a texture to the fibers.   One of the reasons for the popularity of synthetics is their easy care but may be more difficult to work with or to sew and do not breathe as well in warm weather.  The solution has been to make a blend of synthetic and natural fabrics to get the best of both worlds.


The designs: circles, squares and stripes:

Geometric shape and design of the fabric is the key to a classic style.   Patterns and repetitions of patterns can be seen-- the most common is the stripe and herringbone but there are many other shapes. Squares and stripes are most common in tailored looks while circles and waves, more fluid.  It seems a continuum of more tailored and very structured shape on one and and those with more ease and drape with the more round shapes such as paisley on the other and while one may mix them, they will land in between.   As designs are larger, they must be carefully matched --for example, plaids.  After choosing a shape or design, the next step is to choose fiber content and texture.  Personally, I choose first the fiber and texture and then choose a design when I am planning a project but I can see that when one is designing a garment, they may want to choose the design first.

Volume 1, Chapter 3: Fabrics, Patterns, Cutting, Marking. Part 1

We start Chapter Three with a discussion of shape, proportion, texture, drape and color. This weekend I bring you a linktastic post to keep you busy all weekend. The way this winter is going, chances are you may be stuck inside battling cabin fever.

In the past fashion rules were strict. One did not venture in town without gloves, hat, and skirt at the correct length. It was social suicide to go without girdle and unmatched purse to shoes. Colors were dictated by the time of year-- no white after Labor Day or before Memorial Day! The goal was a classic stylish look that flattered. While the rules have lifted the principles of style have not. Creating clothing in correct pattern line, fabric, color, weight, texture and proportion to suit your shape and personal lifestyle is achievable. To do this first you have to analyze your figure and determine the silhouettes that will most flatter it.

The Chic Fashionista: Body Shapes

Once the silhouettes are determined, you can find patterns that echo it. These shapes will cause your best features to be emphasized and draw less attention to the more challenging aspects of your figure. Vogue patterns has a figure guide on the back of their pattern envelopes as below:

Figure Flattery
Determine your body shape from the explanations below and use our KEY TO FIGURE FLATTERY diagram to select styles that are particularly flattering to your figure. Choosing styles suited to your body shape can also eliminate the need for most pattern adjustments. Look for the figure symbol that indicates your body shape, then proceed with confidence, knowing that your pattern adjustments will be minimal and your finished garment will be pure figure flattery.

THE INVERTED TRIANGLE: Large bust and/or broad shoulders with narrow hips.

THE TRIANGLE: Small bust and/or narrow shoulders with full hips and/or thighs.

THE RECTANGLE: Balanced on top and bottom, but boxy, with little or no waist definition.

THE HOURGLASS: Equally balanced on top and bottom, with a trim waist.


The book discusses how empire waistlines are best for the smaller busted, trim shouldered with prominent bottom shapes. Use pleats and gathers to create fullness for slim hips (but emphasizes heavy hips). Form fitting are best for trim balanced figures with minimal proportional issues. A-line shape falls free from the shoulders and is flattering for many shapes. One way to see how the different shapes look on your body is to snoop shop at a high end department store that has a wide variety of styles. Try on different garments until you find those that look the best. Take a few notes and then go to pattern catalog and find patterns with similar lines.

The Benefits of Snoop Shopping

Look For Your Figure

Choosing and Changing Necklines

Once a pattern is selected, making the fabric decision is next. Most pattern envelopes have suggested fabrics. You may also take cues from the style of pattern. For a tailored suit, one must pick fabrics that holds its shape well, that has a good hand. A flowey fabric would not work well with that style. Similarly a peasant blouse style would not work well with a stiff or heavy fabric. Weight and texture of a fabric is important to maintain the style lines of a garment. An example of the Fabrics recommended on the pattern envelope follows:

FABRICS: Silk Tweed, Piqué and Tropical Wool. Lining: Charmeuse. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric to match plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics. *with nap. **without nap.

Choosing Fabric

Emma One Sock Fabric Guide

Once the weight and texture properties of the fabric have been determined, you must determine what color is most flattering to you and is appropriate for the season in which the garment will be worn. Having your “colors” done can help guide you if you are not sure what looks best. There is a book called Color Me Beautiful by Carole Jackson that divides the different types into seasons.

 I had my colors done locally by a lady who was certified in their technique and she assessed me as a "Spring." I was given a packet of color swatches to use for clothing and fabric purchases. I have saved some money using this tool. Every season, Pantone puts out the new color trends. Most always there are colors that can fit any season's palette. Of course, once you discover your best neutrals, they can't go wrong and you can always add a pop of color elsewhere to stay on trend and work in the season’s colors with accessories. Don't talk yourself into colors that don't suit you because they are hot this season, stick to what you know works for you. This way your sewn wardrobe stays timeless.

Your Best Perfect Colors

The Vivienne Files- Color Palette and Wardrobe Building

Additionally consider the role that color plays in proportions. White and brighter colors expand, dark cooler colors minimize (now you know why I wore black for so long!) Pattern also plays a role. Vertical stripes thin a figure if thin and narrow, but expand if they are widely spaced; horizontal expand. Horizontal, if used correctly can move the eye upwards if they are narrow, but can make someone look dumpy if wide.

Blair Style Guide


Choose the weight, texture, color, pattern and then decide on fiber. Many prefer natural fibers because they breathe but the synthetic fabrics are usually lower cost, have easier care and maintenance. Sometimes the best option is a blend of natural and synthetic. The best rule of thumb is to purchase the best you can afford. Quality fabric makes the difference in a high end garment.

Threads: Choosing Fabric for Plus Size Patterns

Colette Patterns Blog: Fabric-Weight vs Drape

Next: Patterns and their history.